Schiaparelli haute couture collection Spring/Summer 2014
The Paris Fashion Week for haute couture opened on Sunday with Atelier Versace, and yesterday saw fashion houses Alexis Mabille, Gianbattista Valli, On Aura Tout Vu and Christian Dior present their 2014 Spring and Summer collections, but all eyes were fixed on the Schiaparelli catwalk.
New creative director Marco Zanini launched his first haute couture collection for the revived Parisian house of Schiaparelli after leaving Rochas last September.
Following the footsteps of the legendary and trailbrazing Elsa Schiaparelli and helping bring back the French maison to life - Italian luxury goods tycoon Diego della Valle bought the defunct label in 2007 - and relaunching it after sixty years is no mean feat, but Zanini carried out the task with aplomb and bold style, paying some homage to the Schiaparelli past, with nods to the famous shoe hat, ivy leaf embellishments and ornate sleeves, but all in a very modern key.
Applauded by the likes of Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, Elle Macpherson, Ines de la Fressange, and Schiaparelli’s ambassador Farida Khelfa, the new designer described what the Schiaparelli woman is today.
“She was and always will be a nonconformist woman ... But today there is not the same shock value that there was in the thirties, so I think the Schiaparelli of today is an extremely confident woman who doesn’t want to conform to a certain cliché,” said Zanini to The Cut.
French designer Jean Paul Gaultier probably described Schiaparelli’s new collection the best, saying, "This is a new Schiaparelli in the sense that it is very feminine and surrealist at the same time with all those contrasts and unexpected details, " adding “It was beautiful, romantic, feminine, tender and modern.”
For the Spring and Summer haute couture 2014 collection the designer took inspiration from "the materials and exclusive prints" used by Schiaparelli and he also mixed fabrics and used feathers with tulle and silk for some of his creations.
There were long flowing dresses, like the one that used "the starry sky" print in Schiaparelli pink, blue and white, and also silk crepe pajama pants, shorts, men's blazers worn over stunning evening dresses.