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R Rosner: exotic winter styles

Designer R Rosner unveiled his latest provocative but stylish designs at the São Paulo fashion week. And there was a secret influence behind the subtle blends of lacework and delicate gossamer layers of material. While it might not be an obvious connection, it does become apparent when you think about it. Moths!

How R Rosner is using insects

R Rosner design has always been strikingly original. But the philosophy behind the clothing unveiled at the Brazilian catwalks is that nature itself is capable of producing breathtaking beauty. So why not borrow some of the design techniques from an evolutionary process that has stood the test of time?

Where the ‘moth theme’ enters the equation is in the use of delicate fabrics, such as lace and organza, mimicking the fragile latticework that becomes apparent if you happen to catch microscopic images of moths or butterflies. The beautiful criss-cross patterns that are displayed by these tiny creatures are reflected in the R Rosner use of materials. The lace used in the designs is invariably black or cream coloured. Whereas butterflies, with their bold exotic colour schemes, have been a common influence amongst designers for some time, moths are far more monochromatic. But they remain equally striking.

Many of the pieces involve layering of fabric, with the see through nature of lace meaning giving the illusion of transparency. The end result is ambiguous. Models appear to be exposing flesh but, in actual fact, they are discretely clothed. But this deception is, in itself, quietly provocative. The overall image is a designer’s dream, to fuse subtlety with a latent sexuality.

R Rosner: original style

The full ‘moth effect’ of the R Rosner collection unveiled in Sao Paulo is enhanced by headgear, by layers often draped around shoulders like wings, and the use of tissue to reflect the subtle texture of moth exoskeleton. Some models sported ‘moth heads’, which were helmets delicately dusted with crystals.

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